As an ex-pat who lives in Costa Rica almost year-round, I often get asked about what it’s like in the less busy times of the year, like the green season… and my answer is always that Costa Rica is an amazing place to visit at any time of year.I have written posts in the past about the various seasons (like the Traveller’s guide) which go into detail about what is considered the best time to visit and why, but the honest truth is that your enjoyment has everything to do with you and your expectations while on vacation.
There are many tropical destinations around the globe that have 2 seasonal weather patterns, and by that I mean they have a dry season and a rainy season. As tourists, many have skewed perspectives of the worst of these times — videos of torrential downpours and landslides in tropical countries (some thousands of miles away from where we’re going). But lots of people decide all the same — there is no way they’re traveling during that time.
What’s sad about that is people tend to share photos and videos of extremes like the most beautiful sunset over a white sand beach… or that torrential downpour I mentioned. But that doesn’t give an accurate description of what day-to-day life is like in Costa Rica in the ‘rainy season’. I’d like to make an effort to correct that with today’s post… because there is a lot to love about the green season. I won’t call it the rainy season again because that carries with it a negative connotation that just doesn’t do it justice.
Instead, we will discuss what time of the year is considered the green season, what the weather is actually like, which areas get the most rain and when, and most importantly why the green season is a great time to explore… because it’s on its way and its the perfect time to book your next trip!
Mother nature does what she wants when she wants (which explains why it’s raining in the dry season this year) but in general, the period from May to Mid-November is considered the green season while Mid-November to the end of April is considered the dry season. However, the change from one to the other is relatively gradual so if you arrive during the transitional periods you will likely get a pleasant mix of sunshine and sun showers.
The average temperature across all of Costa Rica only really varies about 20 degrees Fahrenheit or 10 degrees celsius all year long, but of course thanks to geography, some areas are cooler overall (the Central Valley and Monteverde) and other areas in Guanacaste are hot enough to have tropical dry forest and desert-like flora.
If you want a detailed run-down on the differences, I recommend you give that Traveler’s Guide a quick read. The point I want to make here is that we are in the tropics and tropical weather can be expected year-round, but if you are hiking through a cloud forest on a night tour, you might want a light jacket, and if you are doing it in the green season, you might want a raincoat. I took both on my hike but once I started hiking, I was warm enough to remove them and I found the occasional drop of warm rain quite pleasant.
In terms of geography, the area around Manuel Antonio and the Central Valley has the highest rainfall amounts in the green season. It’s important to note, however, that the Caribbean coast is subject to the same weather patterns as the rest of the Caribbean, which is actually opposite to that on the pacific coast. If you look at the chart in the Traveler’s Guide, you will see higher rainfall in December/January with a second rainy period in July.
So let's talk about what a typical day looks like in say… June.
Morning typically dawns bright and sunny, although the tropical blue skies that you see in the dry season are a softer shade of blue-grey in the off-season. The ground is likely to be damp from last night’s rain, which makes the air smell fresh and clean. The extra rain also ensures that the grass is green and the trees are covered in lush foliage.
Mornings are the perfect time to head out and do whatever excursions you have planned. Businesses tend to be a little quieter, lines will be shorter, and prices will be lower, but very few of the ‘touristy’ businesses actually shut down in the off-season because here a bit of warm rain once in a while is just part of life.
As the sun rises higher in the sky, the temperatures rise, reaching averages of 82-89 F or 28- 32 C depending on where you are. Thanks to the extra moisture in the air, you can expect a bit more humidity than you would in the dry season.
As you’re enjoying your lunch on a patio somewhere, you will notice the sky getting whiter as the clouds roll in. By two or three in the afternoon, the clouds will be darkening and there is usually an hour or so of heavy rains.
Since the sun and the activity from the morning can wear you out, this is a great time to grab your book and find a comfy chair or hammock to relax in while you listen to the music of the rain on the nearby branches.
By mid to late afternoon, the rain is usually gone and you get a couple of hours to head to the pool or take a walk before supper, and then in the evening the rain will start up again, continuing through the night.
While you will occasionally get days that drizzle all day, they aren’t the norm, so with a little bit of flexibility, you can still get outside and enjoy whatever activities you normally would, but you also get to see the lush tropical foliage at it’s best while enjoying the milder temperatures. By comparison, you will often experience temperatures between 95-100 F or 30-35 C in the dry season.
While some people love the heat, others find it tiring and can only be outside for short stints at a time. For those people, the lower temperatures of the green season are much more appealing.
So, if this new information has changed the way you look at the off-season, and you are itching to book a trip in the next few months, here is my two cents worth on the subject.
If you are an outdoorsy person whose perfect vacation includes mountain biking the winding roads of Monteverde or hiking miles of trails and you want to spend as much time in nature as possible- then aiming for the shoulder season will be your best bet. I personally love November. Everything is verdant and growing and the temperatures are moderate.
April/May should also work since the rain increases gradually as it nears May.
If you are coming to Costa Rica to enjoy the pura vida, and your intention is to head to a retreat, do some yoga, rejuvenate your spirit, and generally relax, then any time during the off-season will provide you with a peaceful visit with fresh air to breath and amazing experiences. Plus, the sound of the rain dripping from leaf to leaf is really soothing.
I hope this post has enlightened you and inspired you to take a chance on the green season. It really is a beautiful time to explore everything this amazing country has to offer, and you may be surprised at how much the rain when it does come, changes your perception of “down-time”.
Seeing the clouds roll in and deciding to wait it out in a little roadside cafe can lead to long conversations with new friends, and a chance to get to know some of the amazing people who call Costa Rica home. In some ways, the afternoon rains force us to slow down a bit and just enjoy life as it comes.
I can say, now that I’ve been here a while, I look forward to the green season in much the same way I looked forward to snow days as a child. Somewhere inside us, we still have an inherent need to hibernate once in a while- to slow down and replenish our energy… so why not embrace the slower pace of life and let the rain wash away the stresses of everyday life?
To book your tropical vacation- whatever time of year- just click this link. Our friendly English-speaking staff is always happy to help!