The Intangibles of Monteverde

So often when we talk about Monteverde, we talk about it in terms of the feelings we experience there. In many ways, that makes it difficult to describe exactly what it is about this amazing and awe-inspiring place that makes people want to visit. After all, we all experience beauty in a different way. Especially for visitors that arrive from areas with different climates. When you have never been to a tropical destination, or you live in a cold climate, Monteverde is, quite literally a feast for your senses. It looks very different, but it also smells, sounds, and feels different, and that is a very hard thing to explain.

So, we have compiled this selection of articles for you, provided by some very different writers. Nothing beats experiencing the wonders of Monteverde for yourself, but this will get you one step closer to understanding why we believe that our little slice of heaven is unique in its majesty and heartwarming in its sense of community.

As always, we love to hear from guests and visitors to our mountain home, so if you have an experience you would like to share, please send it in. We hope to add to this post as stories come in!

Mountain Metropolis

Wellness and The Pura Vida Lifestyle

A Misty Morning in the Clouds

The Power of Stillness: The Magic of Ocotea Boutique Hotel

7 Things I’ve Learned from Living Immersed in Nature

The Real Impact of Your Stay

A Breath of Fresh Air | Among The Clouds At The Ocotea Boutique Hotel

Intangible But Not Unimportant

Mountain Metropolis

There is something special about small-town life. Especially when the town in question sits amongst the lush green backdrop of tropical forests high in the hills, and when the views stretch for miles in every direction. 

Beautiful surroundings do so much for our mental well-being, as does fresh air and time spent in nature. The sound of the breeze ruffling the leaves, the warmth of the sun on our faces, the smell of green, growing things — they all just naturally lift our spirits. 

But when you talk to the people who come to visit and stay, in Monteverde, that’s not the only factor that appeals to them, far from it. Life here is unique and inspiring on so many levels, and I believe that the sense of completeness and peace that people feel while they are staying at the Ocotea Boutique Hotel is thanks to a magical combination of circumstances that you can find in very few places.

The best way to understand the appeal and the power of Monteverde is to experience it for yourself, but in the meantime, you can use my eyes and my experiences through a little bit of vicarious vacationing if you will… 

As we go, I hope you can see how life here is a magic potion made up of undulating vistas, fresh air, sunshine, lush green, the music of creatures big and small, social dynamics, culture, community responsibility, and love. Love for the world around us and of all living things.

To do that, let's look at a typical day, high in the mountains where the clouds hang low and the air is an elixir you can’t help but breathe deeply.

Morning in the Mountains

For many, the idea of sleeping in is part and parcel of their vacation, but my experience has always been that the sound of nature waking up is too intriguing to ignore. I once heard a local say that long ago all creatures sang to the sun to celebrate its rising and setting. He went on to say that only the birds still remember, and that is why every morning begins with the varied chirps and squawks and trills of so many birds. No matter how comfortable my bed is, those sounds pique my curiosity and I always end up throwing back the covers and opening the curtains to see what brightly colored bird is singing so joyfully.

One of the unique features of a town like Monteverde is that the geography of the mountains controls the layout of the town. Houses are perched on hilltops, or nestled in valleys, clinging to hillsides or lining the deep channels of fast-flowing rivers… and in between the houses and hotels and stores… there is green. So much green. Towering trees full of life, with dangling vines that reach for the soil and colorful orchids, tucked into the crotch of branches far overhead. Thick grasses grow wherever the sun reaches the ground and spiky plants that thrive in the shade fill in the spaces between. 

The jungle is ever-growing, always adapting, and it is allowed to thrive. In my hometown, the flattest, most even lawn was something to thrive for and every other living thing was ripped from the soil and discarded. Flower gardens were carefully curated with matching colors and controlled to ensure maximum visual appeal. Not so here. Here we are simply observers who marvel at the variety and the colors and appreciate the tenacity of life which seeks out any crack or crevice.

It is this immersion in nature that lends to the feeling of oneness we feel. We aren’t simply living near the mountains and jungles… they surround us and embrace us, and all of the life that exists in those spaces are in full view, like a living breathing kaleidoscope.

It is impossible not to become enthralled. You find yourself grabbing your cup of delicious local coffee and sitting outside where you can simply watch the world go by, and this constant living presence doesn’t end there. Every road winds around and through — mountains and valleys, rushing rivers, and hidden waterfalls. One moment the road lies between two steep hills covered in greenery and then you turn a corner to find a wide-open vista that stretches to the Pacific Ocean which sparkles in the sun way below. Every drive is an adventure. Every walk is a nature tour. It gives one a sense of inclusion and involvement in nature that those flat lawns and manicured gardens never could.

Part of the Crowd

And somehow that feeling spreads. You find yourself smiling at the people you meet, pointing out the lovely bird perched in the branches, or laughing together at the monkeys that gaze back at you from the tree next to the cafe where you are having lunch. There is something about the wonder of that living kaleidoscope that makes us forget our differences, and simply accept our shared existence without tension or awkwardness. We are all part of the same world, the same tribe. We all rely on this earth and we all belong to it and that feeling permeates this place.

It is there in the child who runs, laughing, to chase the chip bag which blew away and put it in the garbage bin. It is evident in the way we walk past the grocery store to wander the market, sniffing fruit picked fresh that morning and discussing the weather with the vendors. Life somehow slows down and settles into a pace that matches the environment around us. 

The TikTok video on your phone can’t compete with what's happening a few feet away when a family of coatimundi waddle across the road and traffic stops to let them pass. You find yourself chatting with a stranger about the experiences you have had, sharing stories and laughter freely and easily, because when you take away the fast-paced, structured world that we have left behind us, you find instead that little day-to-day adventures contain their own special magic.

Experiencing the Local Culture

For those of us that come from very different cultural backgrounds, coming to Costa Rica is like landing on a different planet, and that change of scene is often the motivation behind traveling. Learning about and from people of different cultures broadens our horizons, helps us look at things with a new perspective. It allows us to appreciate different ways of thinking. With this in mind, we may book a tour that will allow us to experience something of Costa Rican culture. Like a visit to one of the indigenous tribes. 

We look forward to seeing something new, learning a new part of history, or a different way of doing something … but we don’t always get what we expect… and I meant that in an entirely positive way.

Costa Rican culture isn’t something you can just watch, like walking through a museum where everything is behind glass. This culture is open and welcoming, it is expressive and exuberant and it pulls you in. Before you realize it, you are involved in the energy, whether it is tapping your foot to the beat of the music or smiling at children who are running past. These people don’t want to just show you. They want to include you. The Costa Rican sense of community doesn’t end with their family and friends, it reaches outwards giving warmth and welcome to all who arrive and it accepts your differences. 

Knowledge is freely given, as is assistance because these small communities work together to thrive, and while they are happy to receive your tourist dollar (it feeds their families after all), you will find very little in terms of commercialism. What you will find are hard-working people who are proud of their heritage and their surroundings, and who are confident in their skills. People who smile as they share their history and their culture, and who truly want to enrich the world with their stories and their products.

A World Worth Conserving

We often hear about the need for conservation, and we appreciate the determination and skill that goes into conserving the living legacy that is Monteverde’s forests. We understand, at least to some degree, the part this country’s biodiversity plays a part in the health of our planet.

The focus is often on sustainability and natural conservation, but that isn’t the only thing worth conserving. Perhaps we need to experience the subtle, quiet magic of this place and these people before we truly begin to see how life in this mountain metropolis can affect our sense of oneness, our happiness, and our personal well-being because that is just as important.

Once you reach that state of calm, you never want to go back. You want to hold on to that feeling and you naturally start looking for ways to recreate the experience in your day-to-day life. The good news is that you can find your zen anywhere.

All it really takes is a conscious effort to live a bit more in the moment. To appreciate the beauty of nature and spend time in it, and to understand how a personal connection with others and the simplest of interactions can brighten your day. By learning to make time for the little things, and for the people around you, you are taking a little piece of paradise home with you to live in your heart- until next time.

Wellness and The Pura Vida Lifestyle

For those who are unfamiliar with the term “Pura Vida”, I think a little explanation is in order. Technically, the phrase translates to “pure life”, but in Costa Rica, it means so very much more. 

It is a universal term that can mean anything from “hi,” to “how are you,” to “I’m fine,” and everything in between. It can also mean “goodbye,” “see you later,” and “have a great day.”

It is something you say to greet people and to wish them well, but it is also the verbal expression of a lifestyle. It is a motto that reminds us to live a pure life, a life that is in harmony with nature, and with everyone around us.

The Pure Life

While it’s not always accurate to generalize, it is safe to say that Costa Rican culture is quite strong, and has some very long-standing traditions. A big part of this is that Costa Ricans, in general, are happy, generous, kind, and friendly people, who live a very simple life. 

Life here involves a strong sense of community, a very close connection to family, and staying in tune with the world around you. Long trips are often managed on motorcycles, scooters, or bicycles with electric motors, but in general, people cycle or walk most places when they can.

The fact that it's hot and that walking or bicycling takes much longer doesn’t matter. The pace of life is slower, calmer… and overall, healthier. Fresh air and exercise have a positive effect on people. Sunshine, the sound of birds, the smell of green, and growing things can ground us as few other things do. 

Add to that the fresh salt air and melodic sound of the ocean waves, or the rush of the wind, and it’s easy to see why people are healthier and live longer… and not just a little longer either. Costa Rica’s Nicoya Peninsula is home to one of only five places in the world designated as a Blue Zone!

Blue Zones

A Blue Zone is an area in which historical studies consistently record a population that enjoys extreme longevity, and better-than-usual health. 

The five designated blue zones are Sardinia, Italy; Okinawa, Japan; Ikaria, Greece; Loma Linda, California; and Nicoya, Costa Rica. These communities regularly maintain a high number of centenarians (people who live into their 100s), whereas the average human lifespan is 70.

Researchers may not know exactly why these areas support such healthy, long-lived populations, but they have a pretty good idea and there are ongoing studies that hope to prove these theories.

The main theories have to do with the environment, diet, community, and lifestyle. As these areas are spread across the globe, they each have their own unique diet, cultural habits, and community structure. But they also have certain traits in common. The studies hope to prove that it is the common traits, habits, and diet ingredients that help people live longer.

More on Nicoya

Nicoya is the name of the peninsula that encompasses the majority of Guanacaste province and parts of Puntarenas province, but it is also a small, relatively rural community located on the Northwest coast of Costa Rica. And it’s this area that has earned the distinction of a Blue Zone (as of 2004). Records show that Nicoya often has the highest number of male centenarians in the world with most of the residents living past 90 years of age!

(Before you ask, the scientists are focused on the male population and their habits because women usually live longer than men, which makes it even rarer to have this concentration of long-lived males.)

The high average age isn’t the only unique thing about the little town of Nicoya. In general, the overall population is very healthy and lives without disability or the use of medication. 

For this reason, scientists are studying the Nicoyan lifestyle and environment to see if they can narrow down the specific lifestyle habits that people around the world can learn from.

Here are some of the habits of the Nicoyans that may contribute to their longevity:

1. Eating a healthy breakfast high in protein, antioxidants, and complex carbs, but low in additives, and preservatives.

2. Eating healthy snacks regularly throughout the day.

3. Eating lots of fruit, and very little meat.

4. Walking to work. Not only is it good exercise, but the fresh air and the time in nature are also good for mental health.

5. Maintaining strong community ties. This slower pace of life gives Nicoyans more time to talk to each other, connect, and support each other.

6. Faith. The Pura Vida lifestyle is as much an outlook as anything else, and that outlook is positive, and trusts that everything will work out.

7. Purpose. Costa Ricans are hardworking and take pride in their work which promotes a workplace based on team spirit and community.

8. Attitude. Nicoyans don’t try to live as long as possible, but they do strive to live the best life they can while they’re here. This habit of living day-to-day and appreciating the small things adds to their positive outlook and attitude. Which, in turn, creates a happy population with good mental health.

Forbes had a really interesting article about the study that you can read here.

You can also watch this nice video:

The Environmental Influence

It’s easy to understand how living in a tropical environment full of trees, rich in oxygen, and surrounded by fresh fruits and vegetables free of chemicals can make people naturally healthier. But that’s not the only way in which nature contributes to our health.

A Holistic Approach to Health

Modern, ‘Western’ medicine veered off quite a while ago from the style of natural, herb-based medicine that many indigenous tribes around the globe have used for millennia. The reliance on manufactured medicines gives people from backgrounds like mine a very different attitude and understanding of what is ‘healthy,’ and it’s one of those topics that many people feel really strongly about.

It’s worth noting that these herbal, traditional medicines are often considered the first line of defense, rather than a cure-all. In more serious conditions, herbal medicine is used in combination with other things in modern medication. Still, it’s worth noting that reaching for plants and spices, rather than a pill first, can have its benefits. 

While many parts of the world use spices for flavor, others understand their medicinal uses and consume them regularly. These herbs and spices have been part of native diets for generations, so perhaps we have forgotten their broader benefits. 

Often, people in the Western world buy vitamins and supplements to provide for their body's needs. But here, a diet rich in fresh vegetables, delicious fruits, and foods cooked with helpful herbs and spices does the same thing. By using a concert of natural, plant- and- spice-based foods, you can do it in a more organic way.

The Power of Lifestyle

There is also a general understanding throughout Costa Rica about the importance of downtime, relaxation, and communion with nature. All of these things, as part of your daily routine, have a profound effect on your mental health and well-being. This is one of the reasons Costa Rica has become one of the top destinations on Earth for Wellness Tourism!

All across the country, places are springing up, offering the chance to combine the beauty of nature with healthy habits like yoga, sound therapy, and meditation. There are retreats and spas, where you can immerse yourself in all that nature offers, release your stresses and find your zen. 

There are groups and clubs for people interested in everything from hiking to cycling, to surfing, and kayaking. The variety is endless but the main theme is promoting the benefits of healthy exercise and movement in a naturally restful environment.

So What Does Pura Vida Really Mean? We’ve Just Scratched the Surface

Still, if you put all of these pieces together, you come right back around to understanding one powerful aspect of the Pura Vida as a lifestyle — a sense of wellness from one year old to one hundred years old, and more! 

When I first moved here, I had guests visiting me. Partway through their stay, they made a comment that caught me by surprise. It was, “Where are all the old people?”

Since the area in which I live, and Monteverde where I often go to explore and work, are both popular with retirees, I asked them what they meant. They pointed out something which I hadn’t noticed, none of the Ticos look “old”. Now that the idea is in my mind, I’ve been noticing it ever since.

It’s not that there aren’t people here much older than I, there are, but they are cycling along the highway with their grandchildren on the bar of the bike, working in their fields, or selling fruit along the highway. And, they are doing it with a smile on their face. Without trying to sound like I’m generalizing (again), more often than not these ‘elderly’ Ticos still have dark hair and relatively unlined skin, so at first glance– no ‘old’ Ticos!

It’s made me more conscious of my inactivity, my sugar-filled diet, and my tendency to rush when I really don’t need to. It has inspired me to do better, and it's something I continue to work on daily. After all, I live in paradise, quite close to a blue zone. I see no reason why I can’t live to a hundred too!

A Misty Morning in the Clouds

It’s an honor to be able to share the stories and experiences of those who have come to stay with us in the Ocotea Boutique Hotel. Today, our guest writer Joy Detlor explores her own “Misty Morning in the Clouds.” 

Sunlight and Comfort

There are days when life is just… perfection and every moment stands in your memory for years to come. Such was the morning that I spent at the Ocotea Boutique Hotel. An experience like that needs to be shared to be appreciated, and so that’s what I would like to do today.

I awoke to the sound of birds outside the window, and light trying valiantly to peek around the drawn curtains, but the bed was soft and warm and I wasn’t yet ready to rise, so I laid in bed for a while longer trying to identify the sounds that drifted in. One of the things that continually amazes me about Monteverde is the assortment of sounds that surround me throughout the day.

A part of my brain is continually hoping to identify all the cheeps and chirps and hums and thrums, but the sheer variety of living things means I really don’t have any hope of doing so with my limited knowledge. As my ears focused on what was happening outside, my eyes wandered the room, noticing all the little details that my tired mind hadn’t seen the night before.

The play of light and shadow is fascinating, even in the dimness, between the smooth white walls and the raised wooden slats. They were both decorative and useful, with metal hangers added to serve as a place to hang my clothing. A clever method was used by the designer to incorporate the natural elements into the space so that the outdoors seemed to flow in and blend. As the light grew stronger, the woven wicker of the light above me became visible, both earthy and delicate.

Still, in the back of my mind, all those mysterious noises were calling to me. I decided that climbing out of bed to look is worth leaving the warmth of smooth sheets and fluffy comforter.

The Tree

My room sits above the front garden where a large leafy tree dominates the view. Its branches abound with greenery of all sorts, some belonging to the tree itself, some simply existing in the crook of a branch or dangling from a limb. Air plants, orchids, and fern-like things that I can’t identify attract winged animals for shelter or sustenance. I can see the colorful flash of hummingbirds and my vivid imagination fills in the hum that I cannot hear.

A large blue morphos butterfly lumbers by. They are my favorite with their beautiful blue wings and strange floppy motion. I pull open the curtains and slide open the door. The sound increases. I walk out to lean on the railing and peer into the branches. Colorful birds, muted ones, flashes of pink and purple orchids, and a tiny green gecko hiding against the bark. So much going on in one tree, it’s bewildering and comforting all at the same time.

Sometimes we forget how many living things we share our planet with. A visit to Monteverde is a vivid and visceral reminder that both humbles and excites me. It reminds me that I’m only one small part of a great big world, and puts my first-world problems firmly in their place. It also reminds me that I am wasting time that could be spent outside exploring.

I wasted a little more time indulging myself with the rich, scented shampoos and soaps in the shower, before getting dressed and heading down to Nectandra for breakfast. The doors are flung open and the shaded back garden beckons, so I wander straight through and settle into a comfortable white chair for a few minutes, soaking in the scents of freshly washed earth and green things.

A server appears at my elbow with a smile asking if I’d like a coffee. Feeling decadent, I order a latte and settle in to enjoy the view while I wait. When it arrives, I lower my nose to a spot just above the foam and breathe deeply of the rich aroma. I do love Costa Rican coffee, strong and earthy but not bitter.

I sip the drink cradled between my hands and plan my day. Last night was spent in the dark moist world of the cloud forest, wandering the pathways by flashlight while the rain trickled down from branch to branch around me, and the guide quietly pointed out the nocturnal creatures that make the park their home. 

I had arrived back at the hotel in a quiet mood, feeling awed by the rather otherworldly experience, and had wandered up to the rooftop bar to enjoy a cocktail and gaze at the vast dark sky and the mass of twinkling stars so vivid against the black. In the city, you so seldom notice the stars, but here they are impossible to ignore, especially when the room features a solarium-like wall of glass.

Now that the sun was up I was eager to see what the forest is like during the day. I ordered my breakfast from a menu that included every possible delight, finally settling on the tropical bowl which was fruit puree with granola and fruit that made me feel healthy and indulgent at the same time. I worked my way through it happily identifying each new and unique flavor as I went.

A Misty Morning

Several hours later, tired but happy, I climbed out of the van, shouldered my backpack, and thanked the friendly driver. Morning in the forest had started out cool and misty, in some parts it seemed as if we walked through the clouds, and I suppose that is how the name came about. Now, however, the sun was high and I had shed my jacket and poncho. It had rained for a while in the woods, but in the end, I hadn’t used the poncho that had been provided for very long. 

The huge spreading branches and thick leaves of the canopy above had sheltered me from most of the rain, and the bits that had trickled down, rather musically, were cool and refreshing. Not at all like the cold rain from home. I thoroughly enjoyed learning about life in the forest, about how every living organism from lichen to jaguars and everything in between depends on each other to thrive. How they each play an essential part in the ecosystem. It changes your perspective when you understand that fact, and you feel a need to contribute, to find your place in this world and make it better.

I walked slowly back to my room, planning on another shower followed by a visit to the rooftop for an afternoon of relaxation and maybe a game of cards with new friends I had made on today’s hike. I wonder perhaps if that is what I have been missing lately. The simple human interaction that was part of life before the pandemic and that we lost along the way.

Perhaps that is the lesson I will take with me when I leave this amazing place. That we are social beings in an interconnected world. We aren’t meant to exist alone and separate from the world around us. We are meant to support it, as it supports us. I make a vow to myself that I will carry that knowledge with me from here on out as I head upstairs to the quiet comfort of my room.

A Thank You to Joy!

If you have stories of your visit to the Ocotea Boutique Hotel, please let us know, and we’d be happy to share your stories!

The Power of Stillness: The Magic of Ocotea Boutique Hotel

I recently had a bit of an epiphany, and it happened while seated in a big comfortable chair, early in the morning, in Ocotea’s back garden.

The experience made me think. At first about the assumptions that many hotels make, and then my mind wandered into a more reflective mode and I learned something about myself that may apply to many of us. Hence the need to share. Let me explain.

I consider myself to be a rather calm, thoughtful person who at 51 understands that the best parts of life are simple, memorable, and most often shared with loved ones. I am also someone who enjoys time spent in nature, and the sound of silence — but I am, nevertheless, seldom still.

Until recently I would have said that I am incapable of stillness, at least for more than the time it takes to Shavasana at the end of my yoga practice. I can SIT still, but my hands need to be busy and my mind is always active.

A Moment of Peace

On the morning in question, a group of friends and I were preparing to hike Monteverde’s Cloud Forest with Ocotea Tours, and I had arrived for breakfast earlier than the rest. So I went out to the space behind Nectandra, found a comfy chair, and sat.

The area is beautiful, shaded by a large tree, surrounded by colorful large leaves, and largely silent. Since there was nothing to do but wait, and I wasn’t really awake yet, I settled into my chair and looked around me. I gazed at the different plants, I watched the birds flit from branch to branch. I noticed the sound of the wind whispering by. I closed my eyes and felt the sunlight on my face, and I just soaked it all in.

Before I knew it, a half hour had passed and my friends were all gathered at the table ordering breakfast (which was phenomenal, by the way). It was the first time — perhaps since childhood — that I had been content to do nothing for any period of time, and the realization stunned me.

So then I started to wonder about the why… and the how. Why do I seldom sit still? How was it so easy here, today?

My first thought was about external influences. In other words, what did the Ocotea Boutique Hotel have that was so special? The space is decorated in a calm, soothing way. Natural surfaces, smooth neutral colors, and shapes. The garden, as I said, is quite lovely, hidden behind the building in a corner that feels sheltered and private. 

Was that all it took? Eventually, I realized another difference.

While many places I have been to feel the need to provide all sorts of distractions in case the guests get bored- Ocotea does not. Perhaps it was this lack of other options that forced me into stillness. Then I thought about what I normally do when I’m sitting and waiting. 

Wander the room, watch TV, and check my phone… all things that keep my mind and my hands occupied but don’t provide anything of substance. Perhaps I never experience stillness simply because there is always too much going on. I don’t know.

Something New in a Busy World

What I do know is that was one of the most pleasant half-hour periods that I have enjoyed in a long time. When it was over and I opened my eyes and looked around, I realized that life was going on around me… but I didn’t feel like I had been left behind, or that I was missing something. I simply felt calm and at peace.

Maybe that is part of the magic of Ocotea. The owners, Karen and Valeria, understand something that many of us may not, and they are — very subtly — helping us learn by providing us the opportunity to simply be, in a space that is calm, beautiful, and safe.

I spoke to my friends about the experience, and as I did, I saw Karen’s knowing smile. Perhaps it comes from growing up in a culture that values stillness and time in nature more. And by that, I don’t mean that North Americans like myself don’t appreciate the beauty around us. I mean that the hustle and bustle of everyday life mean that we glance at the sunset as we drive by and comment on its colors- but we seldom stop to just watch it.

We see pictures or video clips of animals that make us smile or laugh, but it lasts a minute and then we move on. It makes me wonder if the power of stillness doesn’t come from physical stillness, but more from a willingness to be in the moment, and to savor that moment's importance.

As someone who has recently learned, or remembered, how enjoyable it can be to feel part of the world around me for a little while — with no expectations, no responsibilities, and no schedule, I say to you that there are many lovely hotels in Monteverde, and fabulous scenery is everywhere. But I feel as if I have learned a very important lesson. I also feel that I never would have, without Karen’s simple understanding of human nature, and how much enjoyment can be had from the most simple of experiences.

A Joy We Hope to Share!

That, my friends, is the magic of Ocotea in a nutshell. It has grown from a wish to share the essence of — not only Monteverde — but of the pura vida lifestyle Costa Rica enjoys. It was created and designed from a place of love and understanding, and it is… magic. There really is no other word for it.

I hope you get to experience it for yourself someday. To do that, you can head to their website here.

The Hard Science Behind Appreciating Nature

I recently wrote an article discussing the interconnectivity of the natural world, specifically the rainforests of Monteverde. The ways in which elements of the natural world support and provide for each other got me thinking more about the part we play in the world around us and how nature affects us, both emotionally and physically.

And that thought sent me down a rabbit hole that was both fascinating and beneficial. As an ex-pat living in Costa Rica, I am well aware of how much happier I feel when I am sitting outside with my coffee listening to the birds and watching the world go by, but I had no idea about the amount of study that has gone into the science behind this phenomenon.

In the last few centuries, our lifestyles have changed an extraordinary amount. Urban centers have grown much more common, and in larger cities, residents are surrounded by miles and miles of concrete and pavement, with much less green space. While modern technology has vastly improved many areas of our lives and our health, the urban areas that somehow grew along with it often have the opposite effect.

We evolved in a natural environment, just like all of Earth’s creatures, and even though the world around us is rapidly changing, our bodies (and by extension- our body’s needs) remain the same.

When you take any creature out of its natural environment, there will be visible consequences. Sometimes it takes us a while to notice them, but they’re there, and in some cases, we are more likely to notice the people who aren’t changing- more than those who are.

Here is an example…

Nicoya’s Blue Zone

Costa Rica has one of only 5 designated Blue Zones on the planet. It is located on the Nicoya Peninsula. For those who haven’t heard of the term blue zone, it is used to describe a geographical area in which the native residents have a longer lifespan than the norm, and who enjoy better health long into their elder years. In an effort to identify what creates this kind of extraordinary lifespan, scientists have studied and compared each of these areas for similarities.

What's interesting about these studies is that, for all intents and purposes, these areas live a more ‘old-fashioned’ and simple lifestyle, so in essence these communities have maintained the lifestyle and diet of their ancestors. So while we often think of the past as a time when there was more illness (due to diseases that we could not control or through less sanitation or lack of medical knowledge), it must be admitted that there are noticeable benefits to it.

It’s important to understand that these 5 blue zones are spread across the globe and that each area has a vastly different ethnic and cultural background, which means the cause of their longevity can’t simply be put down to lucky circumstances or a geographical anomaly. 

The Effect of Urbanization on Humans

In order to understand why urbanization has become an issue, we must also understand how our lifestyles have changed in the last few centuries. Before we, as a group, started gathering in larger and larger urban areas, we needed to be responsible for collecting, cultivating, or catching our own food. 

We also needed to build and maintain shelters and use materials from the natural world to create everything from clothing to medicine to household goods. It was a lot of work, which would have kept us fit, but it also required a lot more time outdoors, in the fresh air and the sunshine. Even in the worst months of the year, this outdoor lifestyle would have given our bodies access to plenty of oxygen and vitamin D. (Much more than many of us get today.)

And while differences in location and circumstances may have meant that we couldn’t always eat the variety of foods we have now- the foods we did eat were fresh, organic, and unprocessed. There are many benefits to living in a global world. Like eating pineapples in the winter, or enjoying international foods, but sometimes these modern conveniences make it too easy, and we rely a little too heavily on processed foods or fast-food meals which just don’t have the same nutritional content.

When you combine that with life in an urban jungle surrounded by concrete and highrises and bombarded with electrical frequencies that our bodies aren’t used to, away from the oxygen-rich trees and natural spaces that would help with these issues, issues like anxiety and stress can be the result.

Okay, let's stop looking at the negative and learn more about how we can benefit from nature and feel better!

A Little Bit of Science

Now that we have a better understanding of how changes in our lifestyle may be contributing to an increase in stress-related conditions like anxiety and high blood pressure, let’s look at how we can fix it!

To do that I went looking for studies on the subject and the first one that caught my eye was conducted by the European Centre for Human Health at the University of Exeter. The study followed 20,000 people from different ethnic groups, occupations, and ages, and included groups from both rich and poor areas, as well as people with chronic illnesses and disabilities.

The results were surprisingly consistent and the conclusion was that there were noticeable benefits to time spent in nature, both physically and emotionally. However, in order to enjoy these benefits, participants needed to spend a minimum of 120 minutes or 2 hours per week in nature. 

Fortunately, the same benefits could be achieved through one long visit, or through a series of shorter intervals. When questioned, participants who had reached this timeframe consistently reported feeling healthier and having a strong sense of well-being.

But ‘feeling healthy’ is still rather subjective, so I dug a little further to see if there were any measurable physical benefits to be had as well. I found an article by Florida Health that listed several interesting benefits to spending time outdoors.

Time in nature contributes to:

• Lower blood pressure

• A reduction of nervous system arousal

• Lower levels of stress hormones (cortisol)

• Enhanced immune system function

• walking/riding/hiking in nature contributes to improved cardiovascular health

• Fewer distractions/noises/frequencies can improve concentration and focus

• Higher vitamin D levels promote vitamin absorption, strengthen bones and prevent some types of cancer

That last one really piqued my interest. As it happens, Japanese researchers have found that people who spend significant amounts of time in forested areas have elevated levels of NK cells (natural killer cells) which are known to fight tumors and infections in the body.

McMaster University encourages its students to go outside for cognitive growth because when it comes to emotional well-being, there are even more benefits to be had, such as:

• An increased sense of calm

• Improved mood through increased levels of endorphins and dopamine production

• Higher self-esteem

• Fewer feelings of isolation

• A lessening of aggression and hyperactivity in ADD patients

I wish I’d known THAT in college.

No Excuse Necessary

When it comes right down to it, living in a place like Monteverde makes it easy to spend time outside. The sunshine calls to us, the breeze sings to our souls, and the fresh air energizes us. Still, it is nice to know that there is a science behind what we instinctively understand. 

We are part of the natural world and access to it helps us to thrive and to live the long healthy lives we were meant for. So the next time you sit at your desk and the sun calls you, go. Take some time and reset, chances are you will feel more energized and productive afterward and the smile on your face will brighten the lives of those around you.

Better yet, use up that vacation time you’ve been banking and head to Costa Rica for some good old-fashioned vitamin D, or vitamin Sea.

7 Things I’ve Learned from Living Immersed in Nature

It happens every day in the sunny season. People in Monteverde gather in different places to see the sunset. There are a couple of spots with benches where visitors and locals get together and see the magnificence of the multicolored sky reflecting in the stillness of the distant Pacific Ocean.

Sometimes, when I join this silent search for the miracle of twilight, I wonder what is more beautiful: the breathtaking sky or the people discovering their own beauty by looking at it in nature.

As a naturalist tour guide, I’ve seen thousands of passengers change their moods, ease up, and take in the beauty like water for a thirsty, stressed mind. Somehow, the simplicity of nature takes us to a more primitive state of mind where worries and the rush of daily life seem distant and irrelevant.

What is it about nature that gives us peace? What is it about walking on a forest trail that feels better than hours in a luxurious spa? Why do we feel "connected"? And connected to what?

We cannot even talk about aesthetics here. It goes beyond human taste, pleasure, or comfort. It is unfathomable yet undeniable. Nature happens in us when we are immersed in it. It connects us to our most authentic self, the one that doesn’t depend on a phone, social media, or money to be what it is.

Nature calls us to freedom, inner silence, and peace.

And for those who think that inner silence and peace sound boring, what the words actually mean is experiencing life without any obstacles to it. Far from being dull, the experience of pure life can be as intense as you allow it to be.

Here are 7 things I’ve learned from living immersed in nature. I hope one day that you can share in them.

1) It Charges Our Batteries, Cleans our Minds, and Heals the Soul

People who live in nature are without doubt happier, healthier, and more joyful. My life quality is much better since I live next to the wilderness, but let’s face it, can we all do it?

Could I live here when I was managing a big travel company or while studying to get that position?

I know for a fact that while my kids were growing up, living in the wilderness would have been virtually impossible because they wanted certain educational privileges and the kind of social life that comes with living in the city.

And then the question remains: what do we do to get that glimpse into the realm that freely charges our inner battery?

2) In the City

I live in Mexico City every now and then, and in the largest city in Latin America, I discovered that as utopian as it may sound, we are slowly learning to respond to our more primary needs. We live with all the comfort and efficiency of technology, of course, but we are somehow on our way back home to nature.

In the last few decades, big cities (CDMX is part of this urban movement) have been opening green areas, parks, and urban havens where people can come out to have lunch sitting on the grass and under a blue sky.

And even in the most corporative state of mind, we are far more creative and productive when relaxed and rested after time spent in nature. It will always be up to us to go out and find nature close to where we live or work, but it is encouraging to see businesses understand and incorporate nature into the workspace.

Now, you may tell me, "That is easy to say when you are in sunny Costa Rica and not in the freezing North!" And I agree, but then there is another magnificent reality about nature: It is a fractal.

3) Nature is Everywhere

Have you ever stopped to observe the detail in a lettuce leaf? They are magnificent!

Nature is loaded with small snippets of beauty everywhere! If we open our eyes to it, from the silver lining on a rain-loaded cloud to the soft blue of the succulent that may decorate your workstation, all the beauty of the universe seems to gather at the one point where your attention is.

Probably the most important part of this is the realization that, as beauty lies in the eye of the beholder, we simply have to attune ourselves to natural beauty by paying attention.

4)   Humans are Not the Center of the Universe

One of the most amazing insights about nature is realizing that its beauty is absolutely indifferent to the eyes that witness it and the souls that are in awe of it.

Nature does not fake anything; it doesn’t care about being popular, better, or taller (except to search for sunlight and survival). Nature shows itself clearly; it does not judge itself or us. Leaves may have been bitten, flowers may have fainted, and branches may have been broken. It is what it is: organized chaos, an innocent and perfect mess, that allows us to be ourselves as well. 

As we live on a round planet, our human perception tells us that we are at the center of the world (and, well, it’s true! We all are. It is a sphere!), but nature reminds us that we are not that important. And boy is that a relief?!

5)   Inner Silence Through Attention to Nature

One of the most striking ideas I’ve read in recent times comes from Yuval Harari’s Sapiens, From Animals to Gods. He talks about how humans turn into realities the stories we tell ourselves. We think thousands of thoughts a day, and mostly none of them are even a little useful.

Story after story, our inner noise becomes the main obstacle to overcome when we are in nature. All those thoughts follow us into our free nights, weekends, and vacations.

However, inner noise starves in silence when we don’t pay attention to it — and that can be a good thing. The key is to remain attentive to what surrounds you. Photographers and birdwatchers can confirm this, and this is probably the reason why those two hobbies are increasingly popular.

When we find ourselves in silence and surrounded by wilderness, we can open up to the fact that we are part of a huge network. As a result, we connect to our primary reality: we are nature itself.

6) We Are Part Of A Massive Network

Whether we acknowledge it or not, we are part of a huge life network. Some may call it God, some may call it simply "nature" or "life," but as a bottom line, to witness a forest, the sky, or the ocean in all their complexity and believe all ecology is a coincidence is exactly like looking at a smartwatch and thinking that it was created by a fluke.

When we pay attention to nature, we plug into the network that we belong to, and thus we are happier and more relaxed.

As humans, we have been competing with nature, attempting to tame and enslave it. And we have succeeded—for a while.

But it is time to acknowledge that we are a part of it and that the more we love and respect it, the happier and more relaxed our lives will be.

As the following video explains, "Nature does not need us." We depend completely on it.

7) Mental Health

"Monteverde is a healing place." I have heard that so many times, and it may be true. Or it may just be its magnificent nature and a sustainable, happy community that stops to watch the sunset.

Mental illness has become an issue all over the world. We live in a stress pandemic, and we must break through it before it breaks us all down. Monteverde may be a healing place simply because wherever you look there is a thriving and healthy forest, colorful birds, rainbows, and mist. It is a place designed to be seen and admired from many spots.

It is almost impossible not to feel somehow connected to everything here. And it may be this connection that is a healing force.

We Are Nature

Nature is a flowing force, a mother that nurtures us, a network we belong to, an unfathomable intelligence, and a breathtaking mirror. We may find our life purpose in its forests and find who we are while walking barefooted by the beach.

In its indifferent silence, we find that unconditional love is not necessarily the most expressive, but it is there, smiling, giving itself generously for us to flow in it, to be happier, and to fully experience freedom and peace.

The Real Impact of Your Stay

Conscious consumerism is a concept that is growing in strength in concert with the drive towards a more sustainable and eco-conscious lifestyle, and it is one that is near and dear to the hearts of those in Monteverde.

Basically, the idea behind it is that consumers choose their purchases with the intention of putting their money into products and services that will have a positive social, economic, or environmental impact. And by doing this, we can choose to support companies and/or individuals who share our goals and ideals.

A perfect example of conscious consumerism is choosing to buy your morning cup of coffee in that small local cafe that sources sustainable, fair-trade beans instead of buying the bulk bag that is invariably less expensive but which might be produced using unethical practices, and benefits a big corporation.

Here are a few simple ways to spend your tourist dollars with intention:

• Visit tourism destinations geared towards conservation and sustainability

• Shop in small local shops

• Check the labels to find the source of the product

• Watch for “locally sourced” and “organic” labels on products

• Visit local artisans

• Visit the local feria (market) and buy directly from the grower/producer

The Lifeblood of Conservation

Guests to Costa Rica are often surprised by the lack of commercialism that defines many of the businesses that are aimed at tourists. The main reason behind that has to do with the goal of those in charge.

With the exception of privately owned and operated reserves like the Children’s Eternal Rainforest Reserve, these places are government-run and rely solely on government funding, donations, and tourist fees. The fact that the government protects the land is good for the environment because they are determined to ensure that the country's resources and biodiversity will remain for future generations. They have the full force of the law behind them, and they are serious about their jobs.

Their focus, and the focus of the privately-owned reserves as well, is conservation, advocacy, education, and study with the intention of learning the best possible conservation practices and sharing that information with the world. It’s a lofty goal and one we should all wholeheartedly endorse because the health of the planet is directly related to the health of every living thing on it.

The bottom line here is that in order to remain viable these parks need all the help and income that they can get. Given how many people (1.7 million) visit the country each year looking to enjoy the benefits of sunshine, ocean breezes, and nature at its finest, it is safe to assume that if we each put a little thought into where we chose to spend our money once we arrive- we can make a huge impact to the health of nations parks, and the conservation efforts of the many hard-working conservation team members who run them.

Every single visitor can make an impact by simply choosing to visit a reserve, and by purchasing items that funnel their profits back into local conservation. One look in one of the reserves’ gift shops will show you how serious they are about doing just that. You won’t find any “made in China” reproductions here. What you will find are locally-made products and labels boasting that a portion of the proceeds from each sale will go directly into conservation.

Another easy way to show your support is to donate directly to one of the many organizations run by these conservation teams. These are the people who run animal sanctuaries or sell eco-friendly handmade products in the market. They are the people who organize beach clean-ups and recycling drives, and they are hiding in plain sight, every day.

Comparing the Tourism Industry | USA vs CR

Now, I’m not saying that these businesses aren’t trying to make a profit. Of course, they are, they have to in order to stay viable… and there are businesses whose main focus is profit. I’m saying that you aren’t likely to come across anything like the following image.

You might find some of the more ‘touristy’ souvenirs in the touristy parts of town, so being conscious of this will allow you to buy with intention and ensure that your support goes to local artisans who put their hearts into the products they make, and who — in doing so — are often preserving a way of life that is part of the cultural heritage of Costa Rica.

Because let’s face it… conservation isn’t just about nature. It’s also about preserving a way of life.

There are plenty of ways to learn about Costa Rica’s culture and history while supporting the conservation of a truly unique way of life. Excursions that will take you to local dairy farms where you can learn traditional methods of farming and assist in making your own artisanal cheese. There are Chocolate and Coffee Tours that will teach you about the origin of your favorite beans and how local producers work together to provide some of the world's best treats using practices passed down from generation to generation.

You can visit indigenous villages, learn about their culture, and work with local artisans who are happy to share their craft with you. Activities like this put money directly into the hands of everyday people in the community, supporting the preservation of the traditions and families at the heart of this wonderful town.

Directly Supporting the Families of Monteverde On Your Visit

The good news is that while you are here, wandering the shops, picking up gifts for your family, and nibbling your way through the many delicious dishes and beverages available, your spending is contributing in no small way to the local economy.

The craft cuisine trend is thriving in Monteverde, and the local restaurants have some truly amazing options. Since many of the menus are farm-to-table, you aren’t only supporting the restaurant owners and the staff that they employ while you are happily moaning your way through that wood-fired pizza. You are also supporting the farmers who grow the fruits and vegetables and raise the livestock as well as the fisherman who caught your red snapper in the pale light of dawn.

Everything you do, while you are visiting, has the potential to impact the lives of people you will never meet, although there are a few places where you can see firsthand what a difference you can make.

Meeting the Faces Behind Local Art

One of those places is the CASEM Co-op. It’s a favorite destination for tourists, especially those who wish to support the local artisans. The Co-op is run by local women and was developed as a way for them to help support their families while at the same time maintaining traditional skills that have been passed down for generations. 

Here you will find handicrafts created using methods dating back centuries, alongside using new techniques to create recycled and upcycle items in sustainable craftwork. In true Costa Rican fashion, these artisans are finding ways to make the most of what is available and at the same time, using their skills to reduce waste. It’s a real win-win-win. Great souvenirs and gifts for us, less waste for the environment, and a source of income for lots of local artisans and their families.

Like Daisy, a widow who supports her 5 children by creating and selling beautiful embroidered jackets and pillowcases, and Leidy who uses macrame and natural elements like shells and stones to produce intricate jewelry.

Gerardina, who embroiders and knits, has also taken up weaving baskets using recycled materials like newspaper and magazines to support her 6 children.

These ladies and the dozens of other women who are members are a perfect example of how important tourism is to the community as a whole and they also allow us to see firsthand how much community members, working together, can accomplish for the good of all. 

Not only do the artisans create items to sell, but they also provide emotional support to each other, helping to build self-confidence and skill by teaching new members traditional methods and helping each other devise new ones. The crafts that are sold by the CASEM Co-op support literally hundreds of families, ensuring that future generations grow up healthy and happy. Knowing that makes your purchase so much more fulfilling, doesn’t it?

When you wander the streets of Monteverde, you will also find small studios where the artists greet you at the door and happily explain their process. You’ll find vendors who travel miles every morning to deliver fresh produce grown by their families for generations, and you can even visit some of the farms and take part in the harvest (at certain times of the year of course). 

Truly one of the most compelling parts of life in a place like Monteverde is being able to truly impact a community, both supporting and getting to know the people who have made your stay possible. Connecting with the people who are growing your food, making your meals, and carving your purchase… it brings home the importance of your visit, and it draws you into their lives because you impact those lives in a very direct way.

Putting your money directly into the hands of the person who created the product is much more conducive to a thriving economy than passing it to a big corporation that then trickles the profits down so that the people who need it the most end up with the least. 

The world has gone global, and it can be hard sometimes to determine where and when your dollars make the most impact. But we can all make a conscious effort to make a difference whenever and wherever we can, and one by one we can make our world a better place.

For more information about the many amazing artisans that you can visit while in Monteverde, or the countless tours available, click this link. 

A Breath of Fresh Air | Among The Clouds At The Ocotea Boutique Hotel

About halfway from the Inter-American highway to Monteverde, you’ll start to find cars stopped on the shoulder of the narrow mountain roads. It’s impossible to build a viewpoint for every stunning view stretching out across the rolling hills towards the Golfo de Nicoya, or up through valley corridors to where the mountains meet the clouds. So you make do with little dirt paths and sheepish waves to the locals and the occasional traveler when your car can’t quite get out off the road. 

In my journeys to Monteverde, I’ve become no stranger to those roadside stops and sheepish waves, but not once in waving traffic along the road has anyone honked or yelled. More often, I’ll see families pressed to the windows of their rental cars looking at the same view I am. Or locals with a smile as yet another new face is captured by the beauty of Monteverde. 

But on my most recent trip to Ocotea, as I tried to capture the twin beauties of a powerfully colorful rainbow and the late afternoon sun over the Golfo, I stopped to take a breath. I can show you that moment one day, recorded in a minute of hastily thought-up words and smartphone video. But I can’t send you the feeling of a true breath of fresh air. 

No, fresh undersells it. In scuba diving, Dive Masters carry emergency oxygen, a high O2 blend that can reinvigorate your body, revive half-drowned divers, and provide the strength you need to survive accidents in one of the most hostile and challenging environments on earth. 

Step out of the car in Monteverde, breathe deep from the bottom of your belly, and you’ll feel the same life-giving power without the emergency. The air tastes sweet, rich, and delicious. Like you’re drinking in the clouds. 

A Sip in the Lounge

I was still thinking about that first breath as I swirled the second drink of my day, my welcome cocktail in the rooftop bar at Ocotea. The Tamarind Old Fashioned was prepared to perfection, the sweet and earthy flavors selected to add a local twist to the world’s favorite whiskey drink. 

I was born and raised in New Orleans, where the Sazerac is a way of life and the cocktail is an art form, and whether I wish to or not I’m constantly comparing the places I visit to the place I call home. Rarely do they measure up. Ocotea’s did, and the soon-to-be empty cocktails of the silver-haired couple across the lounge from me said it wasn’t just the Old Fashioned that was worth a full glass. 

I’d been up to the lounge once before on a previous trip, but in the intervening months, the additions of a hand-painted mural by artist Majo Rodriguez, and careful playlist curation, have created an atmosphere that surpassed even those lofty expectations. 

Looking out across the Golfo de Nicoya, the mountainside, and the metropolis of Monteverde peeking through the forests, the sunset vista rivals any I’ve seen in Costa Rica. Behind you, the mountains stretch up, the trees stretch higher, and beyond them are the clouds that hide the trails. All that Costa Rica has, stretching out before you.

By the time I finished my cocktail two more families had joined, but the voices were hushed, respecting the pensive piano on the speakers. Monteverde has a way of drawing the silence out of you, making you want to listen. I thought the same as the night went on. Step out onto the balcony of your room, and you hear the winds rushing through the foliage, rolling across the mountains like waves crashing on a shore. 

And apart from the gentle, shivering call of crickets singing for love, everyone respects the quiet. 

A Story of Pride, Prejudice, and Perseverance

It would be impossible to share any story of Ocotea without speaking of Karen and Valeria, the beating heart of Ocotea, and the center of this family-run business. Mother and daughter are cut from the same cloth, and they’re both quick with a smile, kind and thoughtful listeners that set an example for the entire staff that reminds you throughout the day that you’re being looked after. 

I can see where Valeria gets it from. Karen, the matriarch of the hotel, is soft-spoken but has a strong presence — like the same Ocotea trees for which the hotel is named. Moreso, when you speak to her (and if you stay at Ocotea, you will almost certainly have the chance to speak to her) you can tell that she’s intently paying attention. 

The first time I spoke to her, it actually caught me off-guard. In the age of social media and cell phones, we are so used to half- or quarter-attention. A sideways glance, or a quick minute of focus before we’re distracted by pings and messages and updates. To see someone who puts such weight into what you say makes you almost question yourself. Because if she cares deeply about what you’re saying, shouldn’t you?

I find myself thinking more carefully, more steadily, more lyrically when I speak to her. Not out of intimidation, but instead out of the desire to say something worth saying. At first, I thought that perhaps she embodied the quiet of Monteverde, the peace you find so often and in so many ways in this mountain town. It would make sense for that to permeate a person’s personality, their presence, and make you think twice before interrupting. 

But as the trip went on, I found that careful, attentive quiet was only a part of what made Karen — and Ocotea — such delightful hosts.

Ocotea Boutique Hotel was Ocotea Tours and Transfers for 15 years before the vision of a luxury hotel in Monteverde came to life, and from its conception the hotel immediately faced adversity. A global pandemic shut down all tourism, throwing both tours and hotels into chaos. Don Ignacio Fallas, the father of Karen, passed not long afterward, and while his spirit permeates every aspect of Ocotea, his loss brought emotional turmoil as challenging as that of the pandemic. 

His loss also presented another problem. Costa Rica can be very progressive when it comes to sustainability and education, but at times the culture here can have some trouble with letting women take the lead, especially in the world of business. This is doubly true in small towns deeply rooted in tradition, setting a challenging landscape for the mourning family to navigate. 

And yet, Ocotea has thrived. I joined Ocotea as a collaborator before its official opening when it was still just a shell and a dream, and I have seen firsthand the struggle and strength that it took to build the home we are gifted to visit. And yet, like trees grow stronger as they resist the gusts that roll across Monteverde from two oceans, you only see the beautiful accomplishment that is left behind. 

To Truly Savor Monteverde

On the last night of my stay, I returned to Nectandra for dinner, placing an order for the tartare and the steak and settling to sip Monteverde Brewing’s Tapir Red Ale under the hotel’s second mural by Majo Rodriguez. And as I looked out into the garden, I realized that for the first time in a great many vacations, I felt truly rejuvenated at the end. 

It wasn’t that I hadn’t leapt into all that Monteverde had to offer. We had hiked the trails in Curi-Cancha, spotting collared peccaries, and rainbow toucans, and had luck enough that six different resplendent quetzals had graced us with their presence on their long migrations. Just that afternoon I had set off mountain biking along the gorge-tracing roadways for nearly 3 hours. I’d had the fortune to visit an old friend and spend a night catching up, painting, and blasting prog rock on the stereo.

But I wasn’t worn down, or run ragged, like can so often happen on jam-packed journeys full of trips and tours and reservations. I’d lounged on the open-air terraces, slept late, and napped often. The tours themselves had been thoughtful, eye-opening, and physically active, and in sunshine or mist they’d gone on, but each had left behind the feeling of a summer day well spent. 

Monteverde is named for the trees — its name roughly translates to “green mountain” — and I won’t write off the effect that can have on the health of the very air you breathe. But as my meal began to roll out, I wondered if it wasn’t something more than that, just like there was something more to Karen. 

The food from Nectandra is farm-to-table fresh, as is much of the food in Monteverde. When you can see the ocean any time you look west, when the mountains are ripe with produce, and you can find cheese, coffee, chocolate, and beef producers within a stone’s throw, a shrewd chef is in their element. 

But while there is delicious cuisine in Monteverde — ranging from elegant Italian-influenced dining to homecooked burgers to surf-and-turf sushi to typical tico dishes and corner-store caldosas — I’d had a hard time putting a finger on what I described as “Monteverde cuisine.” 

But in two meals at Nectandra, I found the words. In truly exceptional Monteverde cuisine, each ingredient is given a chance to shine, with an emphasis on the richness and complexity of each flavor — particularly in that of the produce. In Nectandra, that comes alive in the simple yet elegant construction of each dish. Nothing is drowned in butter, or dressed up in so many sauces and salts that it becomes a hyper-palatable mush. 

When you taste a lightly grilled carrot, it tastes like a lightly grilled carrot. It just happens to be probably the best carrot you’ve ever tasted. In just two days, Nectandra caught me looking forward to a side of mixed vegetables (a dish I’ve found disappointing most other times it’s snuck into my order). 

San Lucas, the neighboring concept-dining experience, is another example of this emphasis on ingredients, though their execution differs entirely, with each bite of fish, meat, and produce given sufficient pomp and circumstance in a memorable 7-course seasonal menu. 

I leave it to personal preference to split the two, but it is inarguable that the two restaurants are paving the way for a cuisine that can truly be treated as Monteverdense.

Nectandra’s tuna tartare was the best I’ve ever had, just the right blend of sweet, savory, and tart. The steak was perfectly cooked and naturally fresh and took a bold risk that paid off. Steakhouses are quick to butter, season, and salt their steaks within an inch of their life, a center-spotlight superstar to shock and awe. 

But this steak was a platform to explore the four different sauces and spreads served alongside it. Tangy and tart, black peppercorn, sweet potato puree, and roasted taro puree, each with their own unique flavor and something to offer, even when mixed and blended all across my plate. I’m reminded of the best of Thanksgiving dinners, where the turkey is the glue that brings a table full of delicious sides together in concert, but even that doesn’t quite describe the meal. 

It was filling and satisfying, familiar yet surprising, and there was also an incredible sense of restraint in the cooking. Any amateur home chef will tell you that the hardest part is holding back, and truly trusting your ingredients, and at the end of my meal there I felt both my body and curiosity had been nourished. 

What You Will Unearth Here

We have heard the story of Monteverde’s past and its dedication to preserving what exists in the present. But what has started to emerge as the turbulent times of the pandemic have passed is a new beginning for this little town in the mountains, and the seeds of a truly spectacular future. 

Walk around in the forests, and you will find some truth older than humanity itself. But on the roads and the trails that take you there, you’ll find pillars that unite all those who visit Monteverde. 

There is an innate curiosity in those who come here, no matter where in the world they’ve come from, and no matter their age. You’ll find families with three different generations all stopping to gaze up in the trees searching for a flash of green, and a community where dozens and dozens of the forest’s visitors and protectors can watch in quiet respect as rare birds and shy mammals go about their lives.

The Monteverde natives — the people who were raised here, who have spent more of their lives in the forest than outside it, who have toiled for generations to protect the land they saw value in when no one else did and the creatures that live there — they are the ones that set the example for us to follow. An example that says, “We are part of nature, and if you listen and walk quietly, you will unearth its mysteries.”

Karen is a woman of deep faith, and the longer I’ve spent getting to know her and her home, the more I have realized that no matter the denomination, there is always some faith in the people who visit here. When the faintest flash of an emerald wing can be all you see, when a brief moment on a branch is the extent of your interaction, and when so much of the life in the forest lies well above the canopy or deep beneath the ground, it is an exercise in faith to believe in the impossibly complex relationships that lead to a thriving forest.

But at Ocotea, I found a place where I wanted to believe. I wanted to let my curiosity overtake me, and for a few precious moments let the rest of the world fall away in a universal wonder that transcends background, nation, or age. And as I prepared for my departure the next morning, I did believe in one thing — that Monteverde is a destination everyone deserves to visit, preferably multiple times. Because it has something to teach, and something to offer. 

I made my visit to Monteverde to see the migrating quetzals, to drink in nature, but what stuck with me was how much this trip stood out among my others. I have visited Monteverde before, but in none of the trips prior had I experienced so clearly what this little town in the mountains had to offer. 

And that, I believe, is the true gift that Karen Fallas and her family have given to the world. There is a sharpness in the eyes of everyone who sets foot in the Ocotea organization, an understanding and appreciation of the still-somewhat-intangible magic that makes this place so beautiful, and an uncompromising will when it comes to the product they deliver. 

It is like they are saying, “You may not know what makes this patch of earth so special yet, but in time you will. And you are welcome here as long as it takes you to find it.”

When you visit, your adventure will likely differ from mine. But if you choose Ocotea, you will find a place where the exceptional surface, personal touch, carefully selected tours, and local cuisine are all of the highest standards. But more importantly, in each of them, you will find a vision and appreciation of Monteverde, and all this gem in the mountains has to offer.

Intangible But Not Unimportant

I hope that, in reading these articles, you can begin to understand that the magic of Monteverde isn’t in the type of trees, it isn’t in the view from the mountaintop, it isn’t even in the warm welcome you receive… it is in the feeling that all of these things create within you. 

There are so many tangible reasons to visit, but in my humble opinion, the intangibles are just as, if not more important… because feelings of inner peace and comfort, wonder and awe, or acceptance and inspiration are rare enough to be memorable. And because, once you have felt the magic, you never want to lose it.

We are all, in some small way, yearning for calmness, happiness, and acceptance, and every single one of us deserves a place where we can simply… be. Be ourselves. Be still. Be aware. Be connected. Just be… you.

May every visitor to Monteverde find whatever it is they need, and share that experience with others. To take the first step, just click this link and head to the Ocotea Boutique Hotel website.