Getting to Monteverde: The Complete Traveler's Guide

I recently wrote a post entitled “Where is Everything In Monteverde?” It was chock full of useful information about what is available in the Monteverde area, and how to find what you’re looking for in Monteverde, thanks to a handy map of the area which encompasses Monteverde, Santa Elena, and Cerro Plano.

Now that you know all of that, and you’ve decided on all the wonderful things you want to see and do… you need to get here… and that’s what this post is all about. We’re going to discuss the best way to get from home (wherever that is) to Costa Rica, the best routes from the airport you arrive at to Monteverde, and the best ways to travel within Costa Rica, because there is just so much to see.

Let’s get started…

Getting to Costa Rica

By Plane

Most travelers arrive in Costa Rica via one of the two larger international airports. They are the Juan Santamaria International Airport (SJO) in Alajuela, San Jose, and the Daniel Oduber Quiros International Airport(LIR) in Liberia, Guanacaste. 

These are the two largest cities in Costa Rica, with San Jose the largest by far, and are located in the northern portion of the country. There is a third international airport, also located in San Jose, which offers charter flights, called the Tobías Bolaños International Airport(SYQ).

All of these airports accept flights from around the world and have access to connecting domestic flights that will carry travelers to the many small local airports located farther south. 

There are only a few domestic airlines that make regular flights, (like Sansa which offers a daily flight from SJO to Nosara in Guanacaste) but the entire country is dotted with small airstrips (many of which have grass landing strips) and there are several airlines that offer charter flights. Here is a list created by Wikipedia, if you’re curious…

Here is a chart that will show you flight times from some popular travel hubs to SJO…

By Car

Another option for travelers is to drive into the country by one of the 4 land borders, two of which span the Nicaragua-Costa Rica border, and two of which span the Costa Rica-Panama border.

From Nicaragua, drivers can enter Costa Rica at the Penas Blancas crossing which is on the PanAmerican highway just north of La Cruz. The second option involves going from San Carlos on the Nicaraguan side to Los Chiles on the Costa Rican side. This used to be done by boat and was only available on Mondays and Tuesdays but they have since created a land crossing. The surrounding area is quiet and rural, so there are fewer amenities, but the crossing itself may involve less of a lineup and the area is connected to many small towns by waterway, so you will have access to some interesting boat tours if you’re interested.

If you are entering Costa Rica from the south, there are two land crossings that you can use, one on the Pacific Side called Paso Canoas and one on the Caribbean side, known as Sixaola. 

The crossing at Paso Canoas is by far the most popular because it is a straight run down the Pacific Coast along the decently paved Costanera highway, also known as highway 2. It passes through plenty of small towns, offers lots of interesting rest stops along the way, and dead ends right at the border. From there the nearest town on the Panamanian side is Pavones about an hour and a half away.

The crossing on the Caribbean side takes place in the town of Sixaola. Here you will cross into the Panamanian town of Guabito via a bridge. This crossing is rather rustic compared to the one at Paso Canoas, but that could mean less of a queue with immigration. Most people who chose this crossing do so because of its proximity to Bocas del Toro, a popular island off the coast.

Regardless of where you cross there are a few things you should know:

• Your car is allowed into the country, and you are allowed to drive using a valid driver's license, but only for as long as your visa stamp is valid (so 90 days or less). If you plan to stay longer, you must register your vehicle.
• You will pay an exit tax in one country and an entrance tax in the other, both together are generally $10 or less, depending on the country.
• In order to enter Costa Rica, you must have proof that you plan to leave before the 90 days period. This is usually in the form of a plane ticket or bus ticket (make sure it’s from a major bus company to reduce chances of rejection)
• It is entirely possible to walk across any of these borders and there are buses, taxis, and shuttles available at all crossings to get you where you’re going.

By Boat

The third option is a bit rarer, but I will mention it anyway, just in case, and that is to arrive by boat. When this does happen, it usually involves travelers disembarking from a cruise ship at one of the international ports, located in Limon on the Caribbean side and Puntarenas on the Pacific side. Once in a while, some intrepid boater will sail or motor from the US. As with a car, your boat is only allowed to be in Costa Rican waters for a limited time, after which you need to register it, and potentially pay some fees.

Regardless of the manner in which you cross into Costa Rica, you will need to officially register your arrival, and officials will generally give your passport a stamp that is good for up to 90 days, although it is totally at their discretion, and may be less.

Getting to Monteverde

Now that you are safely in the country, let's talk about all the ways you can get here from….there… wherever ‘there’ is. 

Rental Car

Most people who arrive by plane have arranged a shuttle from the airport to their hotel ahead of time, or they rent a car. If you’re comfortable with driving in a strange country, rental cars are by far the best way to go. It's a big country and things can be pretty spread out so this gives you the freedom to explore. (FYI- people drive on the right side of the road here, just like in North America).

Be aware that there are several levels of car insurance here, so it's best to request your paperwork in English if you aren’t fluent in Spanish, and read through it before you sign on the dotted line.

It’s also important to note that if you’re an adventurer and you plan to head off the beaten track (or you are visiting in the green season), it’s a good idea to reserve a 4-wheel-drive or all-wheel-drive vehicle with decent clearance. Some of the more rural areas aren’t paved!

Shuttles

If you aren’t interested in renting a car, then the next most popular method of getting around is by shuttle. There are plenty of companies here that offer private vehicles with a dedicated driver, and you can hire them by the day, or you can book them for a particular trip. In many cases, these shuttles are comfortable and well equipped with A/C and wifi, so you can sit back and relax in between destinations. 

There are also companies that offer regular shuttles from one destination to another, which are not private (and can be crowded). An example of this would be a daily shuttle from the hotel to one of the beaches, or from the hotel to the airport and vice versa.

This is usually an inexpensive and easy-to-access option for people who are heading to popular destinations and don’t mind scheduling their trip around the regular schedule.

Buses

Costa Rica has a really extensive bus system, and the fees are really inexpensive. You can get almost anywhere by bus, although long trips might require a few transfers, and with frequent stops, you could be on the bus for a long time. 

If that doesn’t bother you, then hop on a bus and explore the country like a local, you’re bound to meet some really nice people along the way. Here is a handy link to the bus schedule. In some cases, due to demand, you may need to book your seat in advance.

Ferries

There aren’t very many ferries in Costa Rica, but it is a good idea to know about them in case you plan to explore on your own. The most popular ferry is probably the one that travels from Puntarenas on the Central Pacific Coast to Paquera on the Eastern side of the Nicoya Peninsula. Since the Bay of Nicoya is quite large, crossing by ferry can save you a really long drive. Known as the Naviera Tambor Ferry, it takes everything from walk-on passengers to 18-wheelers, with a limit of 170 cars. The trip across the bay is about 11 nautical miles and will take you 70 minutes. In comparison, a drive around the bay is more like 5 hours.

There is a smaller ferry farther down the coast between Golfito (also on the Pacific Coast) to Puerto Jiménez on the Osa Peninsula which takes about half an hour to cross.

On the Caribbean coast, there is a regular boat service instead of a ferry. It runs from Barra del Colorado up the Rio Colorado to Puerto Lindo and takes 60 minutes.

How Long Does it Take to Get To Monteverde?

I’m going to preface this by saying that driving in Costa Rica is not like driving in North America. While there are some nice multi-lane highways (usually Toll Routes), most of your non-city driving will be done on 2 lane highways that wind up and down around various mountains.

It's a beautiful place to drive, but you will seldom maintain the speed limit for more than a few miles at a time, and the speed limit off the main highway is usually 60 or 80 km. It’s best to head out with the understanding that the journey is half the fun, and that the time spent will be well worth it for the view along the way. In other words, please take these times as estimates.

Having said that, here are the approximate driving times between Monteverde and some popular destinations…

The Bottom Line

Costa Rica is home to some of the most stunning scenery you will see in your lifetime. It is a wild and often untamed land that requires at least a little sense of adventure… but it is well worth a visit. In fact, there is so much to see, it might take several visits to satisfy you. 

So wherever you travel, and whatever mode you choose, we hope you will spend at least part of your time with us in Monteverde.

You won’t be disappointed.

We hope this article will help you plan the best possible trip, or trips… and that you arrive home feeling refreshed and full of wonder about this amazing place we call home.